Fun and easy to sew, my latest Vogue release can be worn as either a shirt or jacket, making it a ‘shacket’. Gwen and I dubbed it the ‘groovy shacket’ in a giddy moment as we developed the design. V1689 reflects styles I saw in Paris last spring in shirts, jackets and coats.
Collarless with a slightly flared silhouette it features distinctive details - novel faux welt pockets, small patch pocket, pared down ¾ sleeves with placket closing and hand stitching detailing. It is easy and fun to make and offers many design options.
The pattern envelope features an on trend floral printed stripe cotton and a natural linen with hand stitched details and ribbon trim. Lightly fitted through the bust, the flared shape skims the hips. It will be easy to lengthen or shorten at the hem - I can see this made into a knee length jacket or full length coat. If you are large busted, do make the FBA (Full Bust Adjustment), this will make the garment hang well, and there should be no problem to the overall styling if you add a bust dart.
Suggested fabrics include: linen, shirting fabric, light weight denim, quilting cottons, light-mid weight cottons, silk, rayon, stretch wovens, or stable knits such as ponte.
On the pattern envelope we used a natural linen and floral stripe cotton. The fabrics shown on the pattern envelope are sold out, but we have put together a special collection of fabrics that are just right for this pattern.
The line drawing shows the details:
Using a jacket weight linen:
Using a shirting weight floral stripe:
Faux Welt Pocket: Looks kind-of, sort-of like a welt, but is easier to execute. In fact, this is a clever variation on the continuous placket often used to finish the opening in a sleeve cuff. To get the just of how things will be sewn, it helps to lay out the welt and pocket paper pieces, pinning together as they will be sewn, so you can see how the pieces are going to fit together.
Breast pocket: As shown on the linen version, it is designed for fabrics that will fray as a decorative element. Test to be sure you like the effect before cutting a slit in your jacket front! If making the small breast pocket, do this before joining the fronts to the back.
- Transfer markings to left front including raw edge slit.
- Using a rotary cutter and straight edge ruler, cut open the slit. Don’t fray yet!
- If you want to stitch the decorative ribbon in place by machine, do it now, positioning so it lies straight with the cut slit.
- Turn under the seam allowances on all edges on the patch pocket, turning to the right side. (so the right side of the fabric will show behind the slit).
- Position the pocket on the wrong side of the garment, right side of pocket to wrong side of jacket.
- Edge stitch in place.
- Wait until the garment is finished to carefully fray the edges on the slit opening and sew on the ribbon by hand.
Finishing with hand stitching
- When the jacket is completed, add optional hand stitching.
- I used a double strand of silk cord, but you could use embroidery floss, buttonhole thread or a double strand of ordinary sewing thread. Make a sample on scraps so you can get the effect you want.
- I thread the needle, then run the thread over beeswax or thread wax and press with a hot iron to make the thread smooth and tangle free.
- I knot each thread separately - this helps prevent tangling and knotting.
- Use a running stitch around the facing and top of the pocket, finishing with a + at the shoulder seams, stitching ends and make a + on the pocket edge to hold it flat.
- Stitch a decorative piece of ribbon on the pocket. I slip a piece of cardboard into the pocket to make stitching easier.
- Carefully tease out the threads along the slit to make a frayed edge