Because all of life is a journey my intention is to create designs that travel well through life, whether staying at home, going to a job, or out and about exploring the world. I travel a lot - am on a plane an average of once a month, and I want my travel clothes to function on the move as well as for days at home in the studio. I seek designs that can be dressed up or down so that the clothes I sew are worn and loved.
Features of the V9300 Tunic:
- semi-fitted in the bust
- skims the waist and hips
- two lengths
- two sleeve lengths, ¾ and full
- has an asymmetrical neck band/collar
- asymmetrical seaming front and back
- has an ‘extension’ on the front, a detail designed to give depth and dimension to the garment, it can hang free either inside or outside the top
- extend the length to make a dress
- make it sleeveless (raise the armhole approx 1” and re-draw the shoulder seam, bind the edge)
- face the hem edge
- add a small secret pocket at the front extension
- leave hem/sleeve edges raw
I used a poly/lycra ITY jersey for the print version, and a rayon/lycra stripe for the other version, others include:
- rayon or viscose/lycra
- ITY poly/lycra knits
- sweatshirt knits
- lightweight scuba
- wool jersey
- As always, tissue fit/measure the pattern so it is as close to being a good fit as you can get
- Do a Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) if you need one
- Determine which length works best for you before cutting out as you cannot adjust the length at the hem.
True confessions, I had to re-do this on a couple of the versions I made. How this will ‘sit’ depends on the amount of stretch in your fabric and if you cut it on the lengthwise or cross grain. I recommend that you baste it in place and try it on to see how it works with the fabric and on you. You can make it wider/taller.
- Or, place the opening at center front
- Or,substitute a standard t-shirt neckband
- Or use any favorite neck finish
- Sew the sleeves in last and stitch them in the round. I find this makes a subtle and superior difference to sewing the sleeve flat - even in a t-shirt!
- Press up the sleeve hem facing
- OPTIONAL: Leave the sleeve hem as a raw edge
- Stitch sleeve seams, press open or serge.
- Hand stitch sleeve hem.
- Stitch the sleeves to the garment working with the garment on top.
- Most of us learned to set a sleeve with the sleeve on top, but this is so much easier; it is working with the give of the knit, so the ease just disappears.
- You need only 3 pins, one at each end and one at the shoulder seam, positioned on the seam so you can pull them out as you sew.
- Stitch, easing as you sew, keeping edges even and stitching in a straight line.
- Press the seam flat as sewn, then, working on a ham or the end of the ironing board, press the seams toward the cap of the sleeve and touch up from the right side.
- Don’t trim the seam, the seam width ‘supports’ the cap of the sleeve.
- You can serge the two seams together, keeping the shaping you pressed in, serging right along the edge to maintain the seam width. Touch up press again.
- It is fine to leave the seams raw, or do a second line of straight stitching 1/4 inch from the first within the seam allowance, and press again.
- Do not zigzag, this can stretch and distort the edge.
- Press seam allowances toward sleeve, shaping cap as you press.
I used our Domino Danish Knit (sold out), and Clair de Lune Danish Knit for the black and gray version and Pascal Panel French Digital Knit for the other (took 2 panels).